My husband and I decided to plan a last-minute trip to Italy to sneak a little vacation time before our spring tours begin next week. I used to spend months in Italy every year doing doctoral research, but have managed only a few short visits over the last five years or so. It was a joy to be back!

How We Got There: We flew Delta from JFK to Rome (FCO). Both flights were easy, though the planes were a little old, and we sped through immigration and customs in Rome without problem (despite arriving the day before the pope’s funeral!).

Where We Went: we spent 2 nights in Umbria (the region next to Tuscany), then 4 nights in Venice and 3 nights in Rome.

Rome is one of my favorite cities - I have been many times and could go back a thousand more. I had not been to Venice in 15 years and really enjoyed seeing the city with new eyes (the key is avoiding the San Marco area). I have spent a lot of time in Umbria (a beautiful region that gets less visitors than Tuscany), but Kyle had never been and it was time that he went.

What I Packed: two pairs of shoes (sneakers and loafers), two dresses (it was warm in Rome), two pairs of pants, 4 long sleeve tops, 3 short sleeve tops. I wore everything at least once.

What I Bought: I found a fabulous women’s clothing store in Venice and went a little crazy there…

What I Learned: There is a reason the old-school Italian restaurants have been around for so long. We ate at a mix of older and new restaurants and I’m firmly in the camp of the classics. And not just the time-tested restaurants - I also most enjoyed eating the classics: amatriciana, carbonara, artichokes, chicory, tiramisu. Simple, yes, but when expertly prepared completely delicious.

What We Ate: Seafood in Venice, pasta and artichokes in Rome, meat in Umbria, gelato and tiramisu everywhere.

What We Did: We started with a visit to a fabulously frescoed villa north of Rome. In Umbria, we visited hill towns and medieval churches. We were busy in Venice! We went back to the famous places (Basilica di San Marco, Palazzo Ducale) and ventured off the beaten path to several splendid churches and museums. In Rome, I went to several of my long favorite museums but we also managed to get tickets to the Palazzo Farnese (now the French embassy) to see Annibale Carracci’s frescoes and enjoyed a beautiful sunny day at the Baths of Caracalla.